Tuesday, July 21, 2009

Things are about to change

My general frustration over blogging has led me to basically abandon this page. While I could complain and say that my energies have been exhausted other places, that is really no excuse. I have come to terms with the fact that I actually really hate blogging. I believe that if you don't have something original to say, you really shouldn't say anything at all. Therefore, I am faced with the dilemma that I either have to spend a lot of time on creating original content or nothing will get written. In addition, after being here in China for over 2 years, I really am over the whole "can you believe that guy is wearing his pajamas outside" or "why do people in china spit so much" and other expat rants.


My new goal is to simply post 1 interesting photo from China at least 3-5 times per week. This will force me to take more pictures and I also think visuals are so much more powerful--we have way too much info to read these days.

I hope there will be pictures to come...

Monday, February 16, 2009

Rebranding

The Year of the Ox will bring major changes to this site. I have always wrestled with the direction and approach of this blog. It has been most effective in sharing personal life adventures and I do enjoy going looking back on what I have written. I recently re-read, for the first time, about my time in Iraq in 2004 with USAID--gets more surreal as the years pass by.

It is now time to expand beyond just personal experiences...

The next iteration will focus on some combination of design/creativity/innovation as my life, career, and passions seem to all be moving in this direction.

As I upgrade this site, I will be guest blogging at 56minus1.com, a great site by my buddy Adam Schokora.

Tuesday, July 29, 2008

Out of China for Olympics Edition

Back in the US now just before the Olympics. So much has happened in China this past year (storms, earthquakes, protests, Tibet, etc.) and I am sure there is more to come over the next few weeks. I plan to write a bit more about my experiences but wanted to direct you to a great piece in the Washington Post this past weekend.

You can read it here and it boils down to:

China, the drumbeat goes, is poised to become the 800-pound gorilla of the international system, ready to dominate the 21st century the way the United States dominated the 20th.

Except that it's not.

Monday, May 12, 2008

Some Great Stats on China's Growth

Check out this article and relevant stats in The Independent article...

160: Cities in China with populations that exceed a million. In the USA there are nine; in the UK just two

95: The estimated percentage of DVDs sold in China that are fake. Uncensored foreign films are widely available from 50p

0: Miles of motorway in 1988

30,000: Miles of motorway today

30: The number of different animal penises on the menu at Guolizhuang, Beijing’s ‘penis emporium’. A yak’s costs about £15, while a tiger’s (which must be pre-ordered) will set you back £3,000

Saturday, May 10, 2008

No Cultural Events (Especially) Before the Olympics

This is an amazing post of how the organizers of Pangea Day in Shanghai had to pull off their exhibition. Unfortunately, I am in the States right now and was not there to see in Shanghai but I did watch the online broadcast here.

So after weeks of plotting, scheming and ceaseless fretting, our Friends of Pangea Day event in Shanghai has gone off without a hitch. For those unfamiliar with the situation, a brief explanation: the Chinese government has launched a serious crackdown on cultural events in the lead-up to the Beijing Olympics. Case in point: two weeks ago, exactly one week before the event was scheduled to begin, the government announced that it was cancelling China's largest music festival this year. The 'official' reason? Local police would not be able to provide adequate security for the event. The real reason? Government anxiety surrounding current pro-Tibet sentiments worldwide. read more...

Monday, March 31, 2008

Twitter Madness

I have had a Twitter account for a few months now but I have rarely used it here in China. Recently, this has changed. More and more of my friends in the expat community in Shanghai are using the service to share various types of information. I noticed the recent growth around the incidents happening in Tibet this month.

Twitter is an easy way to pass along information to a large group of people and also it is NOT blocked in China. Most of the major blogging sites are blocked here in China (despite an argument I had with a local last week who did not believe me) and in order to pass information quickly we need a service like Twitter. As more and more of my friends and contacts out here use the service it becomes even more useful.

If you are not using it yet I suggest you give it a try and look me up: http://www.twitter.com/johnwrede

Other Places I am Writing

It has been way too long since I have written here but I have been trying to get our new Nankeen blog up and running over at http://www.nankeenstyle.com/blog. I have added a new weekly photo series to the site and also commenting a lot on my "on the ground" experiences with China design as a response to the China Design Now Exhibit going on in London.

I will try to update this more frequently...

Tuesday, November 27, 2007

5 Months in China

It has been about 5 months since I left Washington DC and although I have not written as much as I would have like, it is now time to share some thoughts. I guess I don't really have a good excuse for not writing more. Maybe I was just trying to take it all in, maybe it was due to the fact that I don't really like writing that much, or maybe I am focusing too much time on work and studying Chinese.

When one first arrives in Shanghai, or China for that matter, there is just so much going on. So many hilarious and unbelievable everyday occurrences. At first you want to share them all and become yet another expat amazed at the spitting, lack of personal space, the food, etc. Any poor expat soul that was nice enough to include you in their circle are probably regretting it at this point. My favorites are the people that wear pajamas all day long. Yes, I was told it is a sign of wealth, that someone could just be in PJs all day and not have to do anything else. People go to the store, walk down the streets, etc. all in their pajamas. As the seasons change, the pajamas also change. In the summer, men pretty much stick to loafers and boxers but that changes with the weather. I am eager to find out what the winter lineup will consist of. I am hoping for one piece PJs with built-in feet.

The longer I find myself in Shanghai, the less I feel I can articulate and explain back home what I was experiencing. One friend told me recently, after being in China for a day you can write a book. After being in China for a month, you can write a magazine article. After more than a month, you can't write anything.

I find this to be very true. I have learned a lot about China and the culture but the longer you are here, the more complex it becomes. Each layer you discover leads to more layers and even greater complexity. In addition, there are so many "China hands" that have much more knowledge and experience. Most of my friends have been in Shanghai 2-5 years. I cannot begin to act like I know China. I guess one learns the parts of China they want to explore and are intimately involved with.

Although I would like to have more local contacts, most of my experiences within China has revolved around business. The economic boom in China is amazing but as we all keep hearing, the system is in no way perfect. Although China makes most of our goods these days, this does not come without a whole host of challenges. As one Chinese business leader once stated, "hey, we have only been doing this for 15 years." The Chinese are like teenagers--young and energetic but one cannot assume that they know how it all works. They will act like they know what they are doing, but I have learned the hard way that one must verify and question everything.

Looking back on my time so far, I am most fascinated by China's desire to change from a low-skilled manufacturing country to one of increasing skilled labor. China knows it has to move up the value chain but this will take some time. For better of worse, China still thrives on replication verses innovation. From DVDs, to clothing, to online sites, China lacks innovation. This is obviously a huge generalization but I have experienced it first hand. From getting my web projects sourced in China, to our product innovations, the default is to find someone else that has already made something successful and tailor or copy it directly. The Chinese do not feel guilty about this. It is the way their world works. DVDs are a perfect example. One cannot find a regular DVD store in Shanghai. It is impossible to buy a proper copy of a DVD. With DVDs being sold at around a $1, how will this culture ever accept our pricing structure for these items? Is it cultural sentiments or a lack of regulation and enforcement? Do we feel a different sort of guilt or is it just more difficult for us to find these products? I think it is a little of both with more emphasis on availability.

The problem from a business innovation perspective (ok, one of many), is that once a new idea ever does arrive, usually beginning in the West, tons of Chinese companies try and replicate the concept and therefore none of them get traction. This happens with ideas like Twitter, Facebook, etc. No one can build out a brand or a concept fast enough to gain any traction. In order to be successful, one needs a lot of capital upfront to get the brand way out in front of any competition. We have seen a couple examples of this in China--Alibaba and Baidu--but these are the exceptions. As we hear over and over again, the China market is difficult because even though it has so much potential (yes, yes, over a billion customers), it is by no means a guarantee. I will continue to discuss this and other topics surrounding China in the coming months, stay tuned.

Wednesday, September 12, 2007

Traveling Around China

I have been traveling a bit lately, recently visiting Natalie again in Hunan and made my way up to Beijing as well. Beijing was a very interesting city and I will post more about my experience soon. In the mean time, check out some new pictures here. It was very interesting visiting the Olympic sites. Wow, look at the pollution and all the work left to do...

Tuesday, August 14, 2007

Serious singing

People always ask me about the most shocking thing I have seen so far in Shanghai. At first, I might have said the kids with the crotch-less pants or the men walking around in boxers and loafers but two weeks ago that all changed. Two weeks ago, when LB was here, we happened upon something I had never seen in the Western world. It was a Friday night and we were crossing Fuxing Park, near my apartment, when we came across a large hotel-like building. It had a grand lobby with many rooms and it was packed with Chinese people. As we were taken around the facility, it became evident that this was not a hotel but instead a massive karaoke center. Yes, a hotel of karaoke rooms. This place had multiple floors and every sized karaoke room you could imagine. The Chinese take their karaoke very seriously and it is huge here. Always a good time. I am sure there are plenty of more shocking things about to come my way, especially when I head out beyond Shanghai.

Enjoying Shanghai

I have not written as much as I would like on here. Between getting settled and three visitors (LH, LB, and Ian), I have been very busy. In addition, I have also tried to take the whole experience in and explore as much as possible. I can’t believe I have been here less than two months, it seems a long time ago that I was wondering through the streets here, amazed at just about everything. Now, I am used to dodging the laundry hung throughout the sidewalks, men with no shirts on, the heat, negotiating for almost everything, and ordering fried noodles in Chinese. The area I am in is great. I have not lived in NY before but I would imagine it is similar. There are tons of little shops amongst the tree-lined streets in my neighborhood. These stores fix motorbikes, make keys, sell cigarettes and beer, fix bikes, sell DVDs, sell wine, and concoct the most interesting food dishes. When stepping out of the cab on any given night, I literally fall into the dining room of one of these street vendors. The woks are fired up, men are eating and drinking beers, and it is time for “late night snacks.” The interesting part is that these places are never open or in existence until after 11 pm or so. I am so amazed by the demand for late night food here in China. Even at 3 am, there are tons of street vendors cooking on most corners. The fresh noodles, skewered meats, and infamous dumplings are the perfect way to end an evening.

I guess it is not that novel for a city to have so many options but one can literally find anything here. One night I can have friend noodles and a beer for $1 and another I can have a burger and a smoothie for $10. As any outsider may guess, there are a lot of western influences here. We have Starbucks, H&M, Gucci, Coldstone, Subway, and even a Hooters. It is fairly comfortable for an expat living here and I enjoying it immensely.

Ok, just finished my first Mandarin lesson and time to head to the office…

Monday, July 30, 2007

money, money, money

Quick China insight story:

I was visiting office space last week in Shanghai. As I was being given the tour of the very modern and pristine facilities, my guide took pride in pointing out a painting at the end of the hall. The painting was a modern interpretation of the dollar sign, nothing special. What made me laugh, was his comment about the painting. He stated that its place within the facility was there to "remind us what we are all here to do--make money." Although he probably gives that innocent line during every tour, I thought it was particularly appropriate for China, and especially Shanghai. It is a place filled with entrepreneurs and opportunists looking to make something happen in the "wild east."

My only comment was that it might be more appropriate to replace the dollar sign with the RMB...

Sunday, July 29, 2007

Amazing Story

I was pretty excited to find Wired Magazine in Shanghai even with the hefty pricetag. Nevertheless, there is an amazing article on an old computer hand in the Bay Area who disappeared on his sailboat one day. Although sad in itself, the amazing part of the story is the amount of time, resources, and creativity that was leveraged to figure out exactly how this sailboat disappeared without a trace.

This was probably the largest "open source" rescue mission ever and the Silicon Valley (and beyond) resources that were used are unparalleled anywhere in the world or even within our own government--as acknowledged by the Coast Guard itself. Just think if we pooled these resources to find an enemy like Osama...

Clearly this man had made an impact on many people's lives throughout his career and I think you will be equally amazed...find it here.

Disappearing Shanghai

Shanghai has been great to me and most foreigners would agrre that we enjoy a nice lifestyle here. From the great food, to the nightlife, and cheap massages, it is hard not to enjoy yourself. In addition, everyone will also tell you that Shanghai is not the "real" China and you only need to venture a few cities away to find out what that exactly means. I agree with all of this but there is also something tragic happening to the "real" Shanghai. With the winds of modernization sweeping through the city, a bit of traditional Shanghai dies a little more each day. In China's quest to build a modern city, the traditional dwellings and blocks that give Shanghai it's character are being destroyed to make way for new modern apartment buildings.

Now I understand that people would rather have modern dwellings if given the choice but I also question whether those dwellers being pushed out are the same that are going to be occupying the new high rises. I would guess that they do not have the means. Therefore along with losing the traditional blocks and buildings, the Shanghainese are being pushed out further in the way every modern city gentrifies.

I had a fascinating time shooting this phemonenon a few blocks away from where I live. There are many dwellers still living in this site and others are just shifting through all the wreckage. I have always liked shooting buildings, construction, and city life, and I am exciting to continue to document this aspect of the city. Photos located here.

Thursday, July 26, 2007

China controlling the weather

As China gears up for the Olympics next Fall, there has been much talk about what Beijing will do about the pollution in the city. In their Olympic bid, they promised an infusion of cash and technology to deal with this problem. Although I have not been to Beijing yet, it appears that pollution is still a huge issue--I can vouch for the problem at least in Shanghai. Although many have speculated what China will do--from forcing factories in the area to go on vacation to banning the use of cars in Beijing during the olympics--I think their most intriguing idea is weather manipulation. Apparently this is something that already happens in China and it is not a secret at all. Forced rain is just another way for China to get what it needs without letting nature get in the way. Chemical pellets are shot into the air at clouds to create a chemical reaction that produces rain...the government even admits to spending upwards of $90 million on this program!

You can read more about it here in the Asia Times. After being here a month, it just doesn't surprise.

Monday, July 23, 2007

My First Visit to Sister Nat and Rural China

I recently took a trip out to the middle of China to visit sister Natalie in the capital of Hunan Province—Changsha. Nat is currently living there and working as Assistant Field Director of World Teach. As most of you know, she was a teacher this past year in a rural part of Hunan in a beautiful area known as Wulingyuan. As part of my visit I saw her current location in Changsha and we also took a trip to visit her old digs in Wulingyuan. It was very eye opening to get out of Shanghai and see more of the “real China.” Doing so allowed me to understand how unique Shanghai really is…for example in Shanghai babies have pants with diapers (mostly) instead of chaps, and do not use a combination of newspaper and the sidewalk as a toilet. This is only one of the many differences between Shanghai and other Chinese cities. In addition, it is nearly impossible to get around unless you speak the language.

Changsha – I flew into the Changsha airport after about an hour flight and a very exciting snack pack on the plane, which included a relish packet, 3 small cherry tomatoes, and some short of pound cake. Once I found a cab, I got Nat on the phone so she could speak to the cabby in Mandarin. After what seemed like much negotiation we settled on a place and price. As we approached the city I was sure to text Nat every street we passed in case I was kidnapped and she needed to retrace my electronic footsteps. Everything worked out fine and I was dropped off in front of Nat’s school. Hunan was hotter than hell!! I was quickly escorted into her air conditioned office where I met Steve (Field Director) and Rick (current status unknown). We eventually made our way back to Nat’s apartment which was very nice, well let me say, now I think is very nice after seeing her digs from last year. The highlights of my stay in Changsha included a walk to the Subway (yes the restaurant), a visit to Walmart (there are two in Changsha), and eating hot pot. I am excited for Nat as Changsha is a good place to be and it is easy to visit Shanghai from there. It is a pretty average Chinese city and I doubt many tourists or Chinese for that matter will find their way there but that is part of the fun…being one of the few foreigners and totally immersing. The food was also really delicious but very spicy.

Wulingyuan – I really wanted to see where Nat had lived the whole last year as I heard so many stories and video chatted a number of times. The trek out there (which Nat did many a time) was no easy feat. We had to take a 4 hour bus, 45 minute mini bus, and then cab ride. I cannot believe she did this each time she traveled outside of her village! Needless to say it was well worth trip as it was unbelievable to think I finally got to be in the complete middle of nowhere in China and to think my sister, little sister, lived her by herself. The town is tiny and very simple. Most live in very basic makeshift houses with dogs and cows roaming around. Most of the children are naked or wearing their chaps, yes pants with no crotch to easily relieve themselves…these are more rare in Shanghai nowadays. After a tour round the dirt roads in town, where I felt like the mayor on parade as everyone came out of their homes to stare, we found a great little hole in the wall to eat in…now granted, they were all hole-in-the-walls but Nat assured me that she had eaten here before and I would not get sick. The food was actually great and helped to further the “not getting ill” streak. I am sticking to the advice that a beer with each meal keeps you well.

The next morning we headed to the big national park at the center of this recent NY Times article. Nat had seen this place many times and during all seasons. What she hadn’t seen was Wulingyuan National Park during tourist seasons. Between the Koreans and Chinese tourists we definitely got a taste of what Beijing ’08 will probably look like—massive lines to do just about anything. Now these are not just lines, they are Chinese lines, which in itself is actually an oxymoron. A line, as defined in China, is a group of people who group together in order to all push each other forward in the hopes that despite having no where to go and the gates being closed, they will somehow magically get through. There is no mercy in these lines. Even grandma gets shoved to the side because as Nat says, she can’t fight back as easily. Please check out video of us in line here. The heat, unbearable tourists, and our tight timeline meant we had only a brief view of these beautiful mountains and valleys. Nat was so lucky to be able to see these throughout the various seasons as it is a truly magnificent park. There are a few pictures here. After we found our way back down the mountain (through yet more lines) we, after less than 24 hours in Wulingyuan, began our trek back. Although the time was short, I am glad we went and I think that was about all I needed to experience. The family envoy to Nat’s remote town had completed its mission.

As stated previously, it was great to see other parts of China to put Shanghai into perspective. When I returned home to my apartment here, I truly felt like I had entered back into a little paradise where once again I had access to any and everything in this city. First thing I did, ordered a ruben from Sherpas.com, the food delivery service here in Shanghai. Tasty!

Tuesday, July 03, 2007

New apartment, gettling settled

Just finishing up day 2 of living in my new place apartment. To my amazement I managed to get the Internet installed and the A/C fixed, and even a ticket to visit my sister in Changsha delivered. This of course involved the various service people trying to speak to me in Chinese, I having no idea what they are saying and me repeatedly saying "wu bo ming bei" or "I don't understand." This would repeat for a few minutes until eventually some signing and calling the landlord usually got the job done. I even figured out the washing machine today but in China there are no dryers so I got to hang my clothes outside the window on long poles. You see this all throughout Shanghai. Some people just hang them on wires in the streets. I felt very Chinese needless to say, hanging my clothes out in the humid and polluted Shanghai air! I head into the Booz Allen office tomorrow morning and then off to see my sister in Changsha, Hunan for a few days. I am looking forward to being with someone that speaks the language, maybe I will even get three meals a day again.

Hope everyone is well. Once I get more settled hope to put up more pics and write more. New apartment pics here.

Sunday, July 01, 2007

Celebrating our Independence in China

Happy 4th of July to all!

Today we celebrated it in Shanghai. On day four of my new adventure, I found myself at an expat 4th of July celebration hosted by the Shanghaiist. The event featured some American music fused with some Mongolian vocalists, a burger cook off, and "fireworks." It was great to hear American music, eat burgers, and drink beer under a scorching hot sun. Sun is a loose term as you rarely see the sun here, more of a haze of smog and pollution--the Shanghai haze. It was great to actually be out meeting people and speaking English. To date, my major accomplishments have included finding and using the subway, procuring a map, and eating at a a non-expat restaurant.

Shanghai is an amazing city, completely overwhelming and crowded but so much going on. With a plethora of expat and "going out" guides to choose from, there is something for everyone here on any given night. There is even a Shanghai Mac User group to please my inner geek. Maybe we can count down the days until the iPhone is released next year in Asia. So anyone able to get one in the US?

I found a great apartment that I will move into tomorrow (Monday) after I sign the contract. It has two bedrooms and is fully furnished...plenty of room for all you visitors out there. I will head out on Wednesday to visit Natalie in Changsha, Hunan and hopefully we will get to visit the area she has been living in for the past year. I also hope to get a crash course from her on how to order food, bargain down the white guy price, and tell a taxi where to go.

All in all it has been a great fews days and I am excited for what is to come...especially to get more of the language down.

All my pics from Europe are now up (just added St. Petersburg) here.

Take care!

Nankeen has launched!

Hello from Shanghai!

The new Nankeen site and product line has officially launched! Please visit nankeenstyle.com and enjoy 15% off all purchases through the month of July. Just enter Nankeen07 when you check out. This offer is for all friends and family of Nankeen so please pass along...

We would also appreciate any feedback!

More to come...

Monday, June 25, 2007

St. Petersburg

Just arrived in St. Petersburg and now have an Internet connection again. Will give more details soon but uploaded some photos here.

I am especially excited about the Seacloud set, some really great shots of the boat when we got to go out on the zodiacs.